Cascadian Farm

Raspberry Shortcake
Cascadian Farm, $4.50

How's this for a summer treat? Shortcake with fruit and whipped cream, purchased from a hobbit house sitting in the middle of lush berry fields and eaten at a sun-baked picnic table. If I had read the U-pick schedule before I ordered I would have chosen in-season blueberries; since raspberries peak earlier in the summer, the one disappointment was that the berries in my shortcake weren't quite thawed.

Even if you've never been to Rockport, WA, you've probably seen Cascadian Farm's organic products on the shelves at your grocery. Although the company is now massive and diverse, the u-pick fields and farm stand tell the story of Cascadian's small start in 1972 as a pioneering organic farm.

Cascadian Home Farm
55749 State Route 20
Rockport, WA

Pralines

Pralines

Pralines originated in France in the early 17th century, at the home of sugar industry pioneer Duke de Plessis-Praslin. One day the court chef turned his back long enough for his children to steal a supply of almonds and sugar, which they cooked up into a mess so deliciously aromatic that the cook was more inspired than angry. After some tinkering he perfected the recipe and named the new confection in honor of his employer.

Cooks in the American South adapted the recipe for new world appetites and ingredients, replacing the orginal almonds with indigenous pecans and adding cream or butter to the caramelized sugar. Where the original French pralines were individual nuts coated in crunchy sugar, American pralines contain a clutch of toasted nuts, mired in a sepia-toned burnt-sugar puddle with a creamy center and crystalline edges.

The above, somewhat abused praline was given to me by my dear friends Margaret and Bjorn, who recently visited family in the Alabama. It was a perfect Southern souvenir, a single whiff unleashing memories of childhood trips and treats.

Guinness Cake

Guinness Cake

I discovered the recipe for this chocolate and Guinness cake through an NPR feature on British cookbook author Nigella Lawson and her favorite St. Patrick's Day treats. The cup of stout gives it moistness and a subtle depth of flavor--not the exactly the boozy wallop of, say, a rum baba, but rather what Lawson calls, "a resonant, ferrous tang." Plus, it lends itself to visual puns; Lawson recommends a faux froth of cream cheese frosting, while I opted for a simpler dusting of powdered sugar.

Parfait Ice Cream

Parfait Organic Artisan Ice Cream

I recently learned about a compellingly oddball movement called "Architecture Against Death", led by artist Shusaku Arakawa and poet Madeline Gins. In a nutshell, they posit that comfort is the enemy, that by making our surroundings less convenient, we can lead longer and more vital lives.

If Arakawa and Gins are right, pasty chef Adria Shimada will be with us for a long, long time. As the owner of Parfait Organic Artisan Ice Cream, Shimada cuts herself absolutely no slack.

Open only since July, Parfait stands out in Seattle's increasingly crowded and competetive iced treat arena by doing things the hard way. Within the ice cream industry, the practice of using a commercially-made base mixture of stabilized, sweetened milk is widespread, accepted even by some "homestyle" makers. Next to these industrial ice creams, Parfait's products are strikingly pastoral. Shimada starts by selecting the highest-quality ingredients, relying on local suppliers wherever possible. Her staples include milk and cream from the Fresh Breeze Organic Dairy Farm in Langley, eggs from Stiebrs Farm in Yelm, and coffee roasted locally at Caffe Fiore. As for sugar, vanilla, "...and other items that don't grow at the 47th latitude, we purchase only organic ingredients from sources that use socially and environmentally responsible practices." Most Parfait flavors are created from five or fewer ingredients, and never include corn syrup, preservatives, or added stabilizers. The ice cream is made in small batches and served in fresh homemade cones or biodegradable bowls.

The no-compromises approach means Parfait's products incur higher-than-usual material and labor costs. To compensate, Shimada chose to hit the road instead of going the bricks and mortar route. Parfait's lovely custom-painted "mobile parlor" (pictured below, right and left) makes regular stops at selected farmers' markets and Caffe Fiore coffee shops; a schedule is posted on Parfait's website and other stops are announced via Twitter.

I snagged two pints at the final Queen Anne Farmer's Market of 2009, before the market went into hibernation and Shimada went on maternity break. Parfait's menu emphasizes luxurious updates on classic flavors rather than envelope-pushing novelty. Shimada characterises the Fleur de Caramel (pictured above) as "traditionally French", promising that it would pack none of the salt-lick punch that characterizes many faddish caramels; indeed, it has the perfect amount of salt to bring out the smoky sweetness of the caramel. The Fresh Mint Stracciatella (pictured below, center) is delicate and refreshing, a balanced partnership between Dagoba chocolate and mint from Full Circle Farm.

Peanut Butter "Comfort" Cookies

Peanut Butter "Comfort" Cookies

Having spent most of the last 24 hours fending off a pandemic-induced panic attack, I needed a reason to turn on the oven, but I knew it was no time to tackle anything new or complicated. The situation called for peanut butter cookies, baked from the simplest recipe imaginable:

1 c smooth peanut butter

1 c sugar

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 tsp baking soda

Pre-heat the oven to 350. Mix everything together. Roll tablespoons of dough into small balls, place on a cookie sheet, and flatten slightly with a fork. Bake 15 minutes, rotating halfway through.

Because these cookies don't really change color it's tempting to overcook them, but resist; they go from done to burnt very quickly. Just out of the oven they're as fragile as a fresh sandcastle. You can leave them on the sheet to cool and firm up, but if you need the sheet for the next batch, let them cool slightly, then grip each cookie with three fingers (like a radio dial), wiggle gently until it lets go, and transfer to a rack or plate.

I felt much better once the cookies came out of the oven; after all, when the room smells like peanut butter and hot sugar, it's hard not to breathe deeply.

Methow Vallery Energy Balls

Methow Valley Energy Balls

The Mazama Store, $3.50/6

For a rural provisioner, the Mazama Store (below) has plenty to tempt even the best-fed city dweller. I lingered over the bakery case and the candy aisle, but finally chose a plastic baggie of Energy Balls, hand-rolled on the premises.

Each of the different flavors is named for a nearby landmark and comes printed with some local trivia. I picked "The Hidden Treasure Variety":

"The Hidden Treasure mine was one of the most prominent mines located within the Squaw Creek District. A coffee bean serves as the hidden treasure in these Energy Balls--perfect for that early morning on the trail...or by the fire!"

Or for the reluctant drive back to the city.

"Hidden Treasure" energy balls contain peanut butter, cocoa powder, honey, whole coffee beans, and unsweetened coconut.

The Mazama Store

50 Lost River Road

Mazama, WA 509/996-2855

Hungry for more travel-related food posts? How about food-friendly travel posts? You'll find both at Wanderfood Wednesday...

Umai-do Update

In the year since I had my first, addictive taste of Umai-do's homestyle Japanese sweets, I've been keeping a hungry eye on this young business. My article on Umai-do's proprietor, native Seattleite Art Oki, appeared in the January/February issue of Edible Seattle magazine; if you weren't able to catch it in print, the full text is now available on Edible Seattle's webpage.

While the Umai-do storefront isn't yet open, renovations are coming along, and in the meantime Oki is happy to take special orders. You'll also have a chance to enjoy Umai-do products at Seattle Center's Cherry Blossom Festival, April 16-18. Try the "pink" manju (above), a delicate dumpling of homemade white bean paste wrapped in fresh mochi, or any of the other treats pictured on my original post.

Umai-do

3046 South Dawson St.

Seattle, WA

206/850-5306

In search of other tasty posts? Check out Wanderfood Wednesday!

Choco Coffee Mochi

Choco Coffee Mochi
Viet Wah Grocery, $3.50

While I don't consider myself to be a food critic, I feel honor-bound to say these are pretty awful. Since I'm a sucker for all the constituent elements of Choco Coffee Mochi, it was inevitable that I would cave in to their appeal, but my first box of these stale, over-packaged, artificially-flavored, mass-produced imports will be my last.

Rockinghorse Bakery

Plum Bear Claw

Rocking Horse Bakery, $2.50

The "wild west" town of Winthrop, WA, is one of those places that can really challenge your ideas about reality. After thousands of years as a bustling hub of Native American activity, and a century of frenetic fur-trapping and gold-rushing, Winthrop's fortunes had tapered off by the mid-20th century.

Then, in the early 1970s, locals decided to use a large bequest to give their sleepy little town a "Wild West" facelift. They installed boardwalks and saloon doors, gave all the downtown buildings quaint new fronts, and hung pre-weathered, hand-painted business signs. Not coincidentally, the makeover was completed about the same time as the new state highway; the steady stream of tourists continues to this day.

Like the town itself, the Rocking Horse Bakery represents scrappy self-reinvention. Seven years ago, Dave Swenson and Meghan Sullivan lost the lease the Rocking Horse Ranch in Mazama, the family property where Sullivan was raised. Swenson had already been doing some commercial baking to supplement their winter income, and at that time Winthrop didn't have a dedicated bakery, so they decided to try their luck. They named their new enterprise after the family ranch--managing to move forward without turning their backs on the past.

In addition to the pastries, loaves, and pizzas for sale at their shop (such as the flaky, flavorful bear claw above), Rocking Horse supplies several local restaurants. Reading the menus posted around town, I noticed more than one eatery touting its use of Rockinghorse Bakery bread.

Other notable Winthrop treats include the huge selection of imported candy and gourmet chocolate bars at Winthrop Motors, and the homemade ice cream and sweets at Sheri's Sweet Shoppe (there just had to be a "shoppe" in there somewhere, right?).

Rocking Horse Bakery
265 Riverside Avenue
Winthrop, WA
509/996-4241

Banh Bo Nuong

Banh Bo Nuong

Saigon Deli, $1.50

Carried into the Saigon Deli on a tide of lunchtime traffic, I washed up in front of a table covered in plastic-wrapped desserts. I chose a huge wedge of alien-looking cake with golden skin and grass-green flesh the texture of lung tissue. When I asked the guy at the counter to identify the unlabeled slab for me, he shrugged: "Just green cake."

Thankfully, the all-knowing internet was able to provide more detail. Banh bo nuong turns out to be a fairly common Vietnamese treat, similar in composition to sponge cakes enjoyed throughout Southeast Asia. This recipe reveals that a combination of tapioca flour, single-acting baking powder, and numerous eggs gives bahn bo nuong its singularly succulent texture; coconut milk contributes a rich sweetness and pandan (screwpine) extract accounts for the chlorphyllic color and slightly herbal flavor.

Since it seemed like the done thing, I also bought my first-ever Vietnamese sandwich. I'd never really understood their appeal (slabs of tofu on white bread?) but oh, my! Now I see the light. It was like the innards of the best spring roll in the world had been re-housed inside a perfectly crunchy baguette: julienned vegetables, seared tofu, and a mouth-tingling sauce. And the cake, sandwich, and an iced Vietnamese coffee came to $5! Saigon Deli, you haven't seen the last of me.

Saigon Deli

1237 South Jackson Street

Seattle, WA

206/322-3700

The Great Wall of Sathers

Sathers Display
Downtown Seattle Post Office

In the lobby of Seattle's central post office there is a small newsstand with a strikingly organized display of Sather's "2/$1.00" candies, arranged in alphabetical order and numbered for easy reference. I was inspired to learn more about the company and surprised to discover a strong affinity between this display and Sathers' corporate identity.

Since it was founded in 1936 by Minnesota grocer, John Sather, Sathers has had many incarnations; most recently it joined with another venerable candy company, Farley's, in 2002 and went on to acquire such brands as Chuckles, Now and Later, Rain-Blo, Super Bubble, Fruit Strip, Trolli, and Brach's. As a "re-bagger", Sathers had existing relationships with many such companies, buying bulk quantities of their products, then repackaging them for sale to consumers. According to Wikipedia, it is as a marketer rather than as a manufacturer that Sathers has made its mark; "The Sathers company is considered to be the innovator behind packaged 'pegboard' or 'hanging bag' candy, now one of the candy industry's primary marketing programs for general line candies." It's hard to imagine that the potential of the pegboard has ever been exploited more fully than at the Seattle PO.

Marzipan Mold

Giving my beloved wooden sweet molds from Japan a run for their money is this slate mold from Germany, carved sometime in the 16th century. It depicts the Virgin Mary nursing the infant Jesus, and was likely used to shape marzipan or gingerbread. It is in the collection of Paris' Museum of the Middle Ages.